The amazing weather we've been having
here in Portland (and a tip from the lovely Ann Fullerton) prompted
me to write this week's blog about accomplished surfer Clay Marzo.
Marzo, a 23-year-old from Maui, has always felt more comfortable in
water than on land. He entered his first surf contest when he was
only five years old, and by the time he reached 14, Marzo signed on
with Quiksilver after sending in a video of his surfing skills to the
company's team manager, Strider Wasilewski. He has been described as
a prodigy, a genius on the water. However, for most of his life,
Marzo has struggled to shine on land in the way he does on water. He
is uncomfortable in social situations, fidgety and unfocused, and
often comes across as rude and awkward. Clay Marzo, world-class
surfer, has Asperger's syndrome.
Marzo, called "The Surfing Savant" by Rolling Stone, wasn't diagnosed with Asperger's
syndrome until he was 18 years old. Before then, everyday tasks and
basic interactions, like sitting through a family dinner, were an
unexplained struggle. When his parents allowed him to be tested for
Asperger's at Wasilewski's request, Marzo and his family were
actually relieved by the diagnosis. Now they had an explanation.
Knowing why he could be wholly focused on surfing while not being
able to focus on anything else allowed Marzo to embrace both aspects
of his life. He, along with various autism specialists, attribute his
talents to Asperger's, noting that his ability to hyper-focus on
surfing enables him to excel at it. Wasilewski calls Marzo's
Asperger's his challenge and his gift.
While Asperger's is what gives Marzo
his unique, all-out, go-for-broke surfing style, it has also kept him
from doing what many other professional surfers do, like entering and
winning contests. Traveling is often a nightmarish experience for
him, and, of course, there are all the social obligations with fans,
sponsors, and the press. Marzo often copes with these stresses by
pulling out clumps of his hair or by getting high to calm his nerves.
When he does compete, though, he amazes onlookers, often scoring
perfect tens. His inclination to be in the moment allows Marzo to
risk big moves that others wouldn't dare. However, this way of living
is also a hinderance, not only to his safety, but also to his ability
to win competitions. Although his skills and tricks far surpass many
of his competitors', Marzo can get trapped in risking too much and
paying the price for it. In one competition, for example, all he
needed to score was a six in order to win. This is something he could
have easily managed with a few well-executed twists, but always
thinking one moment at a time, he went all-out and fell, losing the
winning seat.
Since his diagnoses, Marzo has gone to
therapy sessions and has made considerable progress in learning how
to manage life on land. Still, he is happiest and most comfortable in
the water, where he thrives and never fails to push himself and awe
spectators.
Had any of you ever heard of Clay
Marzo? Can anyone relate? Is anyone else as amazed as I am by this
man's surfing? Let's hear your comments!